Sometimes, however, a tree does benefit from staking. A young tree with a dense crown of leaves combined with a disproportionately small root ball is almost certain to require a stake. By staking a tree like this, its root ball will be held motionless in the soil. This temporary, artificial stability allows the roots to grow into the surrounding soil, thereby anchoring the tree and giving it a more permanent, natural stability.

Stiff winds coursing through a dense crown of leaves can also spell trouble root ball to rock back and forth instead of remaining stationary, the winds prevent developing roots from taking hold. This excessive movement could lead to a “crowbar hole,” a gap that develops around the base of a tree where water collects, potentially causing root rot. To determine if a newly planted tree’s roots are moving, I grab the trunk and move it back and forth, watching for shifting soil at the base of the tree. If I see movement, I know there’s a problem that staking can address. A stake will help to hold the trunk in place long enough for it to develop sufficient thickness and taper to thwart such movement. In the weeks and months following the planting of any tree, I frequently inspect the ground where the trunk emerges to see if a crowbar hole is developing.

Staking a tree can also offer protection. A lawn mower can be kept from continually banging a trunk and abrading its bark by some strategically placed stakes. Of course, if you have circled your tree with wood chips or any other type of mulch, you won’t need to mow near the tree. If you have planted a tree sensitive to soil compaction—sugar maple or white oak, for example—a ring of mulch or stakes signals “don’t tread here.” For protection, a trunk needs at least three stakes circling it.

Support for any young tree should let the top of the tree move freely and allow for some movement of the trunk, all without causing abrasion where the tie makes contact. A tie placed too high (more than two-thirds of the way up the trunk) will not allow sufficient movement of the top of the tree. To let the lower part of the trunk move adequately, use only one tie per stake.

An elastic material, such as the inner tube of a bicycle tire, is best for a tie because it allows movement at and below the point of attachment, while keeping a firm enough grip on the trunk to avoid abrasion. Other satisfactory tying materials include elastic webbing and nylon stockings. To keep the trunk from rubbing against the stake, it is best to tie any of these materials in a figure eight loop between the trunk and the stake. The common practice of using wire padded with a length of garden hose is less satisfactory for tying because it cannot grip the trunk firmly without eventually girdling it.

Good materials for the stakes themselves are lengths of metal rebar, wooden posts, and metal pipes. I’ve also staked small trees with fiberglass posts sold for use with electric fencing, which have the added advantage of being flexible themselves. Stakes should be strong enough to provide whatever support is needed but should never be so large or be placed in such a way that a tree’s trunk is too shaded. Otherwise the trunk will naturally bend away from the stake.

A single stake may suffice for a small tree whose trunk is less than a couple of inches in diameter. For a larger tree, up to 4 inches in diameter, use two or three stakes, tying each one separately to the trunk.