A. Potatoes need a soil depth of about 2 feet to grow in, so select a can that will accommodate that amount of soil. A plastic can is best because it is weatherproof and you can easily drill drainage holes in it. You also want to start with a clean can. If it’s new, simply wash away potentially harmful residues with warm water; for an older can, eliminate possible bacteria by washing out the can with warm, soapy water and rinsing it out with cold water to remove the suds.

B. Potatoes will rot if left to sit in wet soil, so drill several drainage holes in the base of the container. If you don’t have a drill, you can improvise by using a hammer and nail to pound out several holes. Make sure you drill holes in the base as well as along the sides—about 1 to 2 inches above the bottom—to ensure plenty of drainage.

C. Once you create the drainage holes, place your can in a sunny location and fill it 5 inches from the top with potting mix. If the soil level is lower than that, the container rim may shade the potatoes, preventing them from getting enough sunlight; if it is much higher, you will not have enough room to mound soil on top of the emerging plant. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil but will perform well in almost any soil. For ease of movement and drainage, you can place the can on a rolling plant stand or on pot feet.

Step 2: Plant the potato

Step 3: Keep the plant alive

Potatoes require minimal care under mild conditions. During warm weather, however, be sure to keep the soil in your container moist. Avoid over­watering, which will cause potatoes to rot; it can also produce watery, gritty potatoes. I generally water my potatoes once a week; I water more frequently during extreme heat or periods of drought. After the plant has grown a few inches tall, I also like to apply an organic fertilizer that is safe for edibles. This is the only round of fertilizer I use. Too much fertilizer will produce a large, lush potato plant but few tubers.

If you are an impatient person, like me, harvest the small baby potatoes, referred to as new potatoes, as soon as the plant finishes flowering. Once the flowers are gone, the plant’s energy is completely invested in growing tubers. As the plant starts to turn yellow and die back, dig down and gently harvest a few potatoes to test their size. People willing to wait the full term for tuber maturity will know it’s time to harvest when the potato plant dies back completely.

A. In a limited space, it’s good to keep the mess to a minimum. Lay down some newspapers or a tarp, and simply dump out the contents of the can. Sift through the soil with your fingers to locate the tubers.

B. Once you’ve harvested all the potatoes, dispose of the soil and the expired plant. The nutrients in the soil are gone, and it may harbor disease, so don’t reuse the soil or put it in the compost pile. Wash the potatoes, and allow them to air dry before storing. Harvested potatoes can be kept in a cool, dark location for several months.

Potatoes for every meal

When planting potatoes in a can, you’re working with limited space. To get the maximum enjoyment out of your harvest, start by picking and planting a potato variety that best suits your taste. The starch content often dictates the best use of the potato variety: High-starch content is typically described as “gritty” and has a crumbling and fluffy texture, medium-starch content is often creamier and multipurpose, and low-starch content holds together more readily and has little or no grit.

Fingerling: Low in starch. Use: roasted potatoes, steamed potatoes, boiled potatoes

Red skinned: Low in starch. Use: potato salads, gratins, fried potatoes

Yukon Gold: Medium starch. Use: baked potatoes, mashed potatoes, soups

Russet: High in starch. Use: baked potatoes, French fries, potato pancakes

Photos, except where noted: Kerry Ann Moore, Brandi Spade